How to make preserved lemons

Preserved lemons are a staple in north African and southeast Asian cooking. You can buy them (Belazu Preserved Lemons, £2.13, from Waitrose, for example) but I've been making my own for a couple of years. It's simple and quick – apart from the weeks of waiting for them to be ready.

Preserved lemons recipe
A delicious way to add a citrus tang to tagines, vegetables, roast potatoes, couscous and pulses, these gorgeous full-of-flavour jarfuls make great gifts, too.

• 6 unwaxed lemons

• 150g salt

• 3 bay leaves

• 2tbsp black peppercorns

• 3 cinnamon sticks

• 500ml Kilner-type jar, sterilised

Top and tail three of the lemons. Cut into quarters lengthways without cutting right through the base.

Pour half the salt into a sterilised jar, and add the bay leaves, peppercorns and cinnamon sticks.

Spoon the remaining salt into the centre of each lemon, holding it over the jar to catch salt fallout. Place them into the jar – this might be a bit of a squeeze.

Add the juice of the remaining three lemons to the jar, and top up with water, if necessary, to cover the top of the uppermost lemon piece.

You can tuck in more bay leaves and cinnamon sticks if you like, which look pretty pressed against the sides of the jar.

Leave in a dark place, tipping the jar around occasionally to mix everything together, for about six weeks.

To use, remove a quarter, half or whole lemon, rinse, remove any pips and chop finely before adding to couscous, pasta, roasted vegetables... basically, wherever you might use lemon zest and juice, try preserved lemon instead for a saltier, tangier lemon flavouring.